Dreamwidth

Apr. 23rd, 2017 10:57 am
cabcat: (Default)
So this is what it's like here at dreamwidth, *looks about*
As much as I'd have liked to stay with LiveJournal I can see it's in it's final throes so far as the original service I used.
cabcat: (pleasant)
It's a sobering thought thinking of this song which was written in 1965 and the aspects in it that are still true today.  While we've advanced a lot in some areas, in others perhaps not as much as we could have.  I don't believe we're on the "Eve of destruction" I'm positive thinking in that respect but still.


Lyrics

The eastern world it tis explodin',
Violence flarin', bullets loadin',
You're old enough to kill but not for votin',
You don't believe in war, but what's that gun you're totin',
And even the Jordan river has bodies floatin',
But you tell me over and over and over again my friend,
Ah, you don't believe we're on the eve of destruction.

Don't you understand, what I'm trying to say?
And Can't you feel the fear that I'm feeling today?
If the button is pushed, there's no running away,
There'll be no one to save with the world in a grave,
Take a look around you, boy, it's bound to scare you, boy,
But you tell me over and over and over again my friend,
Ah, you don't believe we're on the eve of destruction.

Yeah, my blood's so mad, feels like coagulatin',
I'm sittin' here, just contemplatin',
I can't twist the truth, it knows no regulation,
Handful of Senators don't pass legislation,
And marches alone can't bring integration,
When human respect is disintegratin',
This whole crazy world is just too frustratin',
And you tell me over and over and over again my friend,
Ah, you don't believe we're on the eve of destruction.

Think of all the hate there is in Red China!
Then take a look around to Selma, Alabama!
Ah, you may leave here, for eight days in space,
But when your return, it's the same old place,
The poundin' of the drums, the pride and disgrace,
You can bury your dead, but don't leave a trace,
Hate your next door neighbor, but don't forget to say grace,
And you tell me over and over and over and over again my friend,
Ah, you don't believe we're on the eve of destruction.
cabcat: (pleasant)
This came out of a discussion on youtube about wether '0000' grade steel wool could cause damage to non tempered glass.  Here was my response after much looking about, it wasn't a little confusing as terms like tempering are misused.


"A few people have reported scratching using this method, I personally haven't ever cleaned glass with this method so I did a bit of research to understand it all. It's not only confusing as some terms are misused a lot but there's also conflicting information when describing the modern windscreen manufacturing process. Anyway this is what I found. (If you find any decent source please reply as this is now bugging me)

With cars, I'm not sure with RVs, the front windscreens are now, and have been for a long time, made of laminated glass with a couple layers of glass sandwiching a layer of PVB (Polyvinyl Butyral). These glass layers are heated to a lower temperature and slow cooled (annealed) during the manufacturing process. As opposed to super heated then differentially cooled, like with tempered glass.
http://www.pilkington.com/pilkington-information/about+pilkington/education/processing/automotive+shaping+and+strengthening.htm , http://www.nags.com.au/products/laminatedwinscreen.aspx

This basically means glass in laminated windscreens has a lower MOHS rating than the side and rear glass which is usually tempered (though some cars now have or offer laminated side and/or rear glass as well). It's not supposed to be a big difference but laminated windscreen glass can vary in hardness depending on what standards it has to meet. I tried to find out what standards there are, at least in Australia, but the tests were more to do with impact and abrasion resistance and how much light is scattered from the resulting wear on the glass. One dubious source (ebay) puts Laminated windscreen glass at commonly around 6-6.5 or at least above 5.5 on the MOHS scale.
http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/How-Hard-Is-a-Windshield-on-the-Mohs-Scale-/10000000205128039/g.html

I did come across an article written by a professional window cleaner who talked about using steel wool on tempered glass. There was however a warning in it regarding poorer quality tempered glass which had microscopic fabricating debris baked into the surface of the glass. He mentions this can sometime be dislodged and trapped in the steel wool or under the razor blade, if using that method, leading to microscratches. http://en.allexperts.com/q/Cleaning-2305/2009/12/Window-Cleaning-1.htm. The same could happen if your windscreen is weathered, pitted or has chips in it.

The other potential issue I guess is that less scrupulous steel wool manufacturers could be somewhat lax in making sure their product meets the correct abrasion ratings or mistakes may occur in correctly labelling/packaging steel wool products."


Personally I would never use steel wool to clean a windscreen as the risk of microscratching makes it too much of a risk for me.  Plus bits always flake off steel wool and can get caught in nooks and crannies and cause rust spots on surfaces.  A bit like the filings you get landing on your car if you park it near a rail line.  I did once try to clean my windscreen with a bathroom glass cleaner powder and a cleaning pad since it did such a great job on my bathroom glass with no scratching.  But, when cleaning my windscreen, I put too much pressure on the pad and ended up with a lot of micro scratches.  It looked fine during the day but at night when light hit the microscratches the resulting glare and "dazzle" was horrible.  I then bought a proper car windscreen glass polishing kit and wet polished the entire windscreen.  Though that took a long time, it got rid of all the scratches I'd put in and the fine wiper sweep scratches that I had been trying to get rid of in the first place.
cabcat: (pleasant)
I only have one thing to say to my USAian friends, cripes your election campaigns run a long time.  I thought you'd already had your election early in the year o.O.   Hopefully now you can be free of all that in your face coverage, it must really wear on you all.
cabcat: (pleasant)
Not sure how good these will be more just an experient in writing and using bits and pieces of ideas I came up wtih created for and in the world of "Aurora Cab"
Aurora Cab Driver log:
UTC Time: 5:56pm, Sunday  14/10/1166
Driver:  Marco Petembe Mallory
Licence/TRP: 77300223-63DD
Vehicle:  Volston VGZ

Pickup: 4/12235 Sir Sesle Eagleridge Drive, Ascot Hills, Aurora City NE2
Destination:  Heron Port Terminal C, Sandstone Point, Aurora Bayside NE45

Upmarket area, had some calls from here, not a lot though. People here usually book local services and not cosmogate taxis for Aurora City region destinations.  The house, impressive but designed to be so and sadly showing a lack of taste to anyone not impressed.  She closes the house door and pulls a suitcase over the manicured lawn leaving furrows.  I quickly get out to help her with the suitcase, she stutters her thanks and I can see she's upset but not at me at something else.  I load the suitcase carefully into the boot of the taxi, she's already sitting in the back and I know already she won't talk during this journey unless she has to.

You learn pretty quickly when people don't want to talk and not to try and make conversation.  I only double check the destination she wants to go and ask if she minds the radio, she says she doesn't mind and moves her troubled gaze back out the window.  Traffic is light heading out to the Bayside at this time of the week, everyone's coming back not going out.  She's still looking out the window hands together in her lap, thumbs rubbing over each other in anxiety.  I know she's running from something, she's not in danger but anxious about the future.  I've seen that look enough times now to know even before I knew her destination.  You only go to Sandstone point for two things, cruise ships or the ferries for Douglas Bay in Sarllive.  I know which one she's getting on.

She's still looking out the window, though her anxiety is now replaced with a sadness in her eyes.  She's slowly tracing little circles in the corner of the passenger window as I smoothly sidle the taxi into the yellow zone of terminal C.  She refocuses as I show the meter and ask how she wishes to pay, judging by her eyes she's paid for something already in life.  She pays in universal credits and I quickly get out to get her suitcase before she tries to get it on her own and place it on the footpath next to her.  I ask her if she'll be alright, she looks at me with those sad eyes and as she turns away, grabbing her suitcase handle, she gives me a smile.  It's not a happy smile and she knows I've seen it before on many faces and what it means.  "In time I think..." she says and she pulls her suitcase away, trundling on those little wheels, through the terminal doors.   She's leaving but she's left something here, I don't know what it is but I know to leave she had to leave some part of herself here.  I blink once or twice and make my way back to my taxi, I look in my rear view mirror at the empty back seat and I briefly see the ghost of her drawing circles on the window glass.  My attention is then taken by someone signalling in time honoured fashion for service and I reset the meter and move forward.

Hail and ride my friend, hail and ride.
cabcat: (pleasant)
I had always hoped that Australia would be more like Europe in regards to cars equipped with Manual transmissions but looking at how things are going it doesn't seem like it. There are now no longer manual transmission options on quite a few cars sold here now and I find that a bit sad especially when I think they are superior to "Dual Clutch Transmissions" in terms of clutch life, longevity, durability, reliability and driving fun. If you want an automatic then a standard torque convertor style transmission or CVT are much better options.

What I've tended to find is DCG/DCTs are a compromise between an automatic and a manual and so don't do either that well, you lose the simplicity and driver engagement of a manual and you can't drive a DCG/DCT like an automatic e.g. creeping in stop start traffic otherwise you can wear out the clutches. Not sure if it's an issue with BMW DCG/DCTs but some of the VW and Ford ones can be pretty jerky. Some of the DCT/DCG transmission issues have occured from not being designed for what they'd be used for. A lot of people will drive them just like standard automatics/cvts which means a lot of stop start driving, creeping and holding on hills which DCGs are simply not designed for.



Some people don't like the way CVT's surge to optimum revs and ratios with no feel of a gear change so they don't give the impression of speed yet I've found they take off from a standstill at a decent pace but aren't meant for high torque applications. Some have these silly "geared" modes with paddle shifts but I've found they usually reduce performance and should just be left in automatic mode.

I recently drove a rental Camry with a 6speed automatic and it was a really smooth shifting unit, almost imperceptible shifts, I was very impressed and for a car that drove like a sofa it could probably be excused for not having a manual option when sold. I was very close to buying a secondhand Lexus IS350 which didn't suffer from carbonisation issues due to it's D4S injection system but unfortunately only came in automatic transmission but a standard automatic and not a DCT/DCG.

Others might also find this article on Audi moving away from DCT/DCGs for their really high torque applications interesting
http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/audi-shifts-away-from-dual-clutch-transmissions-20160616-gpkryu.html

Seb is only a single plate clutch 5speed but the clutch operation is heavier so finer control is possible. I find it easier to control and maintain vehicle speed since engine braking is also possible.
cabcat: (really)
Yes I'm a day late but I put that down to my current health.

I've had another bad bout of my anxiety/depression issues which have unfortunately reared it's head a bit too often this year for my liking.
It's always a shock when you realise that your mind, which you'd think would be on your side, actually starts working against you by either overdoing it's job or by taking your own thoughts and amplifying them thinking it's helping.  Sometimes it's one's own way of thinking that initially is helpful but then becomes negative or poisonous.

There are mental processes called "cognitive distortions" which anyone can fall into the trap of doing and if you allow them to become ingrained they can lead to problems like depression, anxiety, OCD and other mental maladies.  A listing and some  ways to help over come these "cognitive distortions" are behind the cut.

Read more... )
cabcat: (what the?)
Took the car out for a drive and it seems okay, it seems consistant and doesn't fade or anything over time.  I have a feeling it might be me being hypersensitive, plus I did go through a bad patch healthwise so my physical strength did take a bit of a knock.  I'll just keep an eye on things during the run in procedure on the new front tyres.  The steering is still light enough to drive one handed so I think it's okay, though it feels like I'm getting a bit more road feed back due to the new tyres.

It is a bit of a puzzler though, I could've sworn it was getting heavier.
cabcat: (what the?)
I've noticed in the last few months Seb's steering has become heavier and it's become quite noticeable now.  He got a new set of rubbers on the front last weekend and an alignment but it didnt' make any difference.  On the plus side he's less twitchy on the freeway, on the downside at slow speeds steering is heavier.  I suspect a dying power steering pump but there's no odd noises no erratic behaviour and no changes in the assistance mid way through turning changing rpm or even from left to right.  It's just become heavier.  No leaks, fluid level is fine and is only 2 yrs old, no contamination of fluid,

Now I used to take my car for steering and suspension work to a particular franchised "steering and suspension specialist".  Unfortunately the staff that used to be there no longer seem to be there and it's turned into one of those "free check" type places which I avoid generally on principal because how good can a "free check" be.  By past experience I've found a "free check" is usually junk and I'd prefer them to do a proper job making a diagnosis, I don't care if I have to pay for it.  This "specialist" when asked if they can carryout a pressure test on the power steering system say they don't do those but can tell if the pump needs replacing.

I didn't argue but just made an excuse not to make a booking.  It's fairly standard industry practice to pressure test the power steering system to check;

  1. The pressure being delivered by the power steering pump and,

  2. If there's internal rack seal leakage that can be causing fluid pressure to drop there isn't any other way to tell.

So now to try and find a place that will do proper testing and diagnosis, I might give my local Toyota service centre a go.  I've been going to them for all my parts and more complex service requirements for awhile and I've had no complaints yet.
cabcat: (pleasant)
On the new FA20F engine in the WRX it is in layman’s terms an 86/BRZ engine turboed with a twin scroll turbo charger and using Subaru's direct injection system rather than Toyota's D4-S found on the 86/BRZ.  Subaru's system uses an inbuilt air/oil separator to reduce/stop the build-up of carbon deposits on the backs of the intake valves a process some of you older mechanics and car guys will know as "coking".  It even has a separate oil pump for the catcher unit in the separator.  Toyota's D4-S system uses a combination of port and direct injection to keep valves clean.  For more details on the FA20F see here: http://australiancar.reviews/Subaru_FA20E-FA20F_Engines.php

I looked into this engine because I was researching a bit on DI engines and their intake valve deposit issues that were apparent on earlier vehicles and particularly bad on some.  When it got bad the engine would often run rough and throw fault codes usually requiring removal of the heads and decarbonising or walnut shell blasting with the heads still attached, not a cheap process.  This is an issue which hadn't been encountered on port fuel injection engines or carb engines with PCV and EGR systems since the advent of detergent fuels.

For those that don't know since direct injection sprays directly into the combustion chamber the detergent fuels were no longer washing over the back of the intake valves.  This allowed oil fumes from PCV and EGR systems to land on the back of the intake valves and bake on.  Normally in port injection the fuel washing over the back of the intake valves would keep them clean or help to keep them clean, with that gone the carbon deposits would build up and eventually effect the air intake and valve sealing around the area.

The problem became apparent on many of the early adopters of direct injection with VW, Audi, BMW and more all reporting issues.  It wasn't just the European marques that were affected, Lexus engines that used only DI like the 2.5L V6 4GR-FSE found in the IS250 also suffered from issues.  The Lexus 3.5L V6 2GR-FSE found in the Lexus IS350 was immune as it used the D4-S system using a combination of direct and port fuel injection.  Ford also had issues with the DI ecoboost engines early on which was also a problem if you tried to run an induction cleaner through the intake as it often caused Turbo failures due to overheating.  As described by a Ford tech here. 
Part 1    Part 2.   Ways to reduce the problem were to aid an aftermarket air/oil separator, oil catch cans and running the car at higher revs for a time to burn off deposits.  A bit like how you burn out diesel particulate filters.  Sometimes known colloquially as "the Italian tune up" probably because of the issues you'd get if you drove a Ferrari or Maserati at dawdling speeds all the time, often a highway burn would fix the issue.

So what are doing or have done:


  • Toyota will probably use the D4-S system on all DI engines since it works or a variation of it like the ESTEC D4-ST found on the 2.0L 4cylinder turbo 8AR-FTS found in Lexus 200t models. 

  • Mazda, in their Skyactive-G engines, designed the head so the heat pathways keep the intake valves hotter.  I think this was so the oil fumes would flash burn rather than land and bake onto the valve.

  • Subaru have incorporated a factory air/oil separator with a separate scavenger pump.

  • Ford use some kind of cam phasing and timing create a different EGR environment.

  • I think Honda and Hyundai use a different kind of PCV and EGR system.

  • I'm not sure what the European marques are doing but I'd image they're doing similar things.

So it's not like makers are not sitting on their laurels, we are however I think reaching the limits of efficiency with the internal combustion engine.  I've come across engines which I didn't realise run a combination of the Otto cycle and the Atkinson cycle which from an engineering point of view is amazing :).

The other thing worth looking into if you’re interested in the new direct injection setup is Toyota’s D4-S, here is a quote from the engine site I listed earlier in regards to why you would want to run a mixture of port and direct fuel injection.

Generally, direct injection lowers the tendency to knock such that they can operate at higher compression ratios and increases performance by reducing the charge intake temperature. At low engine speeds and high loads, however, direct injection is inferior to port injection in forming a homogeneous air-fuel mixture where there is little time to form a homogeneous mixture – from the time fuel is injected until ignition occurs – due to mixture stratification in the combustion chamber. To overcome this problem and produce a homogeneous air-fuel mixture, direct injection engines generally use devices such as:

  • A tumble intake-port;

  • A helical intake-port; or,

  • A swirl control valve.

These mechanisms, however, decrease intake-port flow efficiency relative to a port-injected engine and inhibit performance at high engine speeds. The D4-S system switches to the port injectors to achieve mixture formation in these conditions without the need for swirl ports or different piston crown shapes.”

There endeth the lessoneth.
And now Stubby Bob in Roadkill




cabcat: (pleasant)
Unlike the peeps in the US which get the Mexican made 5 door Fiesta, we in Australia get the the same Fiesta ST that they get in the UK the 3 door hatch made in Germany.

The car gets great reviews in terms of performance and handling but Ford Australia doesn't.  Since we don't have Lemon laws, like they do in the US, we often get screwed over royally when there are problems with cars.  Things got so bad that there is actually a Class action against Ford Australia over the "Power-Shift" DCG transmissions, I can't recall that ever happening here before.

Now the German made Fiesta ST avoids a couple of issues that the Mexican version in the US suffers from:

  • Issues with premature clutch wear

  • Issues with thin paint

There are reports of a fair amount of rattles and the old Sync1 they use in the UK/AUS versions and they're not brilliant but if it plays mp3 from a usb stick that's all I care about.

There are no issues with the performance and handling of the car but I'm worried that problems are more likely and that given the attitude of Ford Australia I'm in real trouble if something does go wrong.   But there is nothing on the road that comes even close to the ST.  Unless I'd go for a VW Polo Gti  but that'd be just a ticking time bomb given their reputation.

Maybe I should look at a Mazda 2 or 3.  I can't stretch to a WRX >.< and a Toyota 86 is too singular in it's use.
cabcat: (pleasant)
All of you who've worked on cars will know this pain, normally trim clips pop off when you pull or lever them in the correct manner.  But some refuse to and of course snap in some unpleasant way.

Well working on "Seb" on Sunday I thought I'd polish the plastic that covers the gauge cluster, it's just one big piece of plastic that I replaced when I bought the car because there was a huge crack in it.  Now there's  this trim garnish you'll find in most cars that goes over this usually it has one or two screws in the top affixing it to the dash and usually two plastic prongs with metal grip clips at the bottom.  Now on most cars this just requires a firm pull straight backwards then the metal clips compress, slide over notches in the mounting points and the trim panel slips free.
But ohno Toyota in their wisdom made these metal clips much less flexible and with a design that nearly makes it impossible to pull it backwards again.

I found this out when I replaced the clear plastic oh so many years ago, in removing this trim I snapped one of the bottom plastic prongs but managed to wrangle the other one out.  Once replacing  the clear plastic I glued the prong back with that excellent glue that comes with a power substance to reinforce the plastic.  I put the piece back on with a firm click and put the screws back.  Flash forward to Sunday, I knew it was likely that one would break again so pulling firmly straight back and crack, yup it broke again and it took ages to pull the remainder of the plastic prong and the metal clip from it's hidy hole which can't be reached from round the back.  So I clean the clear plastic and inside the cluster and glue the prong back on taking time to file off excess glue so it will fit back in.  I push it back in with a firm click and I think "phew" that's over.  But I've forgotten to put two screws back that go in thedash cluster.  Much swearing ensues and I pull the trim garnish off again although this time both prongs break and twice the amount of time passes while I try to get remainder of prongs and clips out.  I'm about to glue these back on again but realise what's the point, each time I or anyone else tries to pull this off again the prongs will simply break again.  So putting some insulation tape around where the trim sits to avoid rattles and the use of body moulding tape on where the back of the bottom of the trim piece meets the dash and putting back the two original screws that affix the piece to the inside of the dash I call it a night.  It doesn't rattle or move at all so that's a plus but cripes that annoyed me.  My perfectionism, or OCD, to do with cars was screaming at me to replace it with the original, but the part is no longer available from Toyota and really would just have the same issues again any time it had to be removed.

Gah!

(Addendum:  I came across a beaten up corolla at an auction house and gave the bottom portion of this piece a tug and it popped straight out so maybe the holes weren't moulded properly hmmm)
cabcat: (pleasant)
You ever have something that's just hanging around and you never really know the history of it, or what it is exactly or where it's from but you keep it because you like it.

Well that's what I had, I've had this car badge with an engine capacity on it for must be over 15 years.  I bought it in a junk shop for $5.  And here it is:



For over 15 years I knew it was off an American car but had no idea what car or even make it was off.
I assumed it was a "BOP" product as it wasn't any common size big block I'd heard of, you know 440, 427, 454 etc.

So during lunch time at work I looked it up and found it was a designation for a fairly rare engine.

Read more... )
cabcat: (what the?)
Hello mateys
Well this morning I returned to an old haunt of mine that I hadn't been back to in years, it was a car auction house which was then on the other side of town but now is much closer after I moved.

Now as a younger cat I would rock up early most Saturdays and have a looky Lou at what was available for auction that Saturday.  To be honest I was never really looking to buy but more to see what car models were like, have a look around them, sit in them and generally familiarise myself with makes and model specifications.  So it was nice to go back and see that very little had changed except the cars.  The reason I like going is usually you are never hassled by the sales staff at all, if you want information about the car you go to the well manned reception desk and ask about a car and they usually have all the info there.  I would say that about 75% of the cars in the auction house aren't as clean or as well cared for as my car :3  which always surprises me a bit.  Considering some of them are very expensive vehicles.


Behind the cut )
cabcat: (pleasant)
Most of my car fiends...uh friends :)  will have heard about this I'm sure.
VW has been caught bypassing emission ratings by having a "defeat mode".  The "defeat mode" allows cars to pass lab testing even though they actually emit 40 times the california emissions standard. (And I'm sure other emissions standards around the world).

At first it was only thought to effect 500,000 cars in the US market but as a cnn news article states (and many others):

"Volkswagen stunned investors Tuesday by admitting that the problem was much bigger than that: internal investigations had found significant discrepancies in 11 million vehicles worldwide.

The company set aside 6.5 billion euros ($7.3 billion) to cover the cost of recalls and other efforts to limit the damage, trashing its profit forecast for the year in the process.

Shares in Volkswagen (VLKAY) plunged 17% Tuesday, after suffering a similar crash Monday. About a third of the value of the group has been wiped out in two days, causing big losses for major shareholders such as Qatar."

Okay for people who own performance VWs this isn't really going to make much difference but people who did buy on a fuel-efficient, environmental basis this will effect them and no doubt the "fixes" provided by VW will most likely effect the car operating characteristics and feel which may make the car not at all like it was when the person bought it.
It also has tax implications in Europe where cars registration fees and environmental charges are effected by the emissions rating of vehicles.  Probably the most galling is that it's broken one of the basic rules of business, "Don't sell a product that says it can do something when it most definitely can't"

The other odd thing to me is why Diesels are considered "environmental" anyway, more carcinogens and soot particles always makes me think that the "clean diesel" idea is kind of a misdirection.  It's a bit like "clean coal" when what they mean is "Well it's cleaner than it was"

The good out of this is that one it shows that companies doing the dodgy will be caught and two there will be greater scrutiny of all vehicle manufacturers.  I wouldn't be at all surprised if other makers were doing it too.

Sources:
http://money.cnn.com/2015/09/22/news/vw-recall-diesel/
http://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-34298259

cabcat: (pleasant)


cabcat: (pleasant)
I've been watching the "RoadKill" channel on Motortrend's channel on youtube.
I'm a fan of it because unlike so many car shows the presenters don't annoy me and I find it genuinely interesting.  Yes they do silly stuff but they know it's silly stuff.  It's an American show and doesn't have so much of that ego bollocks that plague so many hotrod related car shows with fake drama.

This is currently one of my favourite episodes:  One because I do like those Monte Carlos (I prefer the 79 though with the single headlights and never on hydraulics) and two because they seem to be genuinely having fun.



My favourite lines from this episode:

  • Wait they don't sell these to white people how did you get this?

  • Ohhh is it even connected to the transmission....that slid forward 3 inches.

  • That looks so broken.

  • Get in here and hit the third one from the left.... I'm not getting in there.

  • I now understand why they do this.

  • This is the greatest car ever.

  • Do you think speed is our friend?

  • How can that hurt so bad at such a low speed?

  • I think the windshield is compromised

  • What is happening here this road is not that bad.

  • If you have never seen a low rider on super swampers now you can say you have.

cabcat: (pleasant)
The Fiesta ST was still my pick for a next hot hatch purchase but the new VW Polo Gti seems worth a look.

It has gotten rid of that complicated 1.4L twincharged engine (huffer set up, Turbo & Supercharger) and replaced it with a minimal lag 1.8L turbo engine.
And joy of joys a manual option instead of DSG only.

It only slightly tops the 1.6L turbo in the Fiesta ST in the power stakes but does push out more torque but, and here's the rub, only if you buy the manual option.  According to Australian market specs, the Polo Gti power ratings are the same for each transmission but the torque ratings differ are as follows:

  • 320Nm @ 1450-4200rpm (manual),

  • 250Nm @ 1250-5300rpm (DSG)  

That's a 70Nm drop with the DSG o.O  That's terrible!  Considering the higher servicing costs, complexity and history of faults with DSG gearboxes by multiple manufacturers it's not really an option at all is it unless you can't drive manual or you want DSG fuel economy (then why buy a Gti at all).

The other details between the two are as follows for the Australian market.

Fiesta ST (manual)

  • 134kW @ 5700rpm   147kW temp overboost

  • 240Nm @1600-5000rpm 290Nm temp overboost

  • 3 door hatch only, 6spd manual only

Polo Gti (manual)

  • 141kW @ 4300-6200rpm

  • 320Nm @1450-4200rpm

  • 5 door hatch only, DSG or 6spd manual


The Fiesta is 62kg lighter than the Polo and judging by multiple reviews the Fiesta ST still wins in dynamics but the Polo is the more "grown up" option however is less involving to drive "apparently"

Still it would certainly be worth test driving both.  I think I could live better with the interior of the Polo but with nearly twice the servicing costs that's something I probably couldn't look past.
cabcat: (pleasant)
After driving Seb Rolla for a fair run on the Freeway (about 250kms) I came to the conclusion that Seb's high speed stability was rather lacking on some of the less smooth freeways.

Seb is running on a set of standard height king springs which actually raised the car a bit and gave the car a bit of a rake with the back slightly higher.
So I thought I'd give lowering a try and bought a set of Eibach Pro springs for $275 on special which was cheap enough to give them a go.

The springs looked better designed than the kings which have the upper coils far too close together and do make contact with each other and the Eibach springs dont' do that.

I test fitted the front left and they lowered that side by about 30mm (an inch)  so I test drove it in and out of the driveway and around the block a couple of times.  They rode well but unfortunately the tow plate under the car scuffs against the road surface when leaving the driveway each time no matter how slowly I crabbed over it due to the crown in the road and the steepness of the driveway.  So I put the king spring back in and put the Eibachs up for sale.

It's a bit of a shame but I use the car everyday on less than perfect roads so I now know I can't get away with lowering it even mildly.
Ah well nothing ventured nothing gained :)

cabcat: (pleasant)
I only just saw this but I'm sure many of you have seen this already. :)

Amazing really.


Oh and two recent additions to my youtube channel, Just some edits from the Australian film "The Big Steal" (1990)



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